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Tunnels
Aug 21, 2008 14:23:27 GMT -5
Post by DogGoneGood on Aug 21, 2008 14:23:27 GMT -5
Tunnels: There are two kinds of tunnels you will find on the Agility course; the Flexible Tunnel and Collapsible Tunnel. A dog must go through the tunnel all the way to complete it.
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Tunnels
Aug 21, 2008 14:29:22 GMT -5
Post by DogGoneGood on Aug 21, 2008 14:29:22 GMT -5
Flexible Tunnel: The Flexible Tunnel is a great way to change direction on a course without slowing down or having to get your dog to switch sides. Flexible Tunnels are able to twist and bend in all sorts of shapes and come in a variety of sizes. They also come in a variety of colours! There are also saddle bag-like sand bags that you can buy or make that drape over the tunnel to keep it from rolling when a dog goes through it, or if it is outside, to keep it from blowing away (as mine has done before). If you can't afford to purchase or make these sand bags, simple milk jugs filled with water or sand with string attached to two of them will work for the same purpose; they just don't last as long. AAC Rules and Regulations V 1.0.1 APPENDIX C Obstacle Construction Standards Flexible Tunnel:The flexible tunnel shall be fully enclosed except for the two openings on each end and be capable of being curved to the extent that it is not possible to see through the tunnel from one end to the other. It shall be between fifteen and twenty feet (15 ft. and 20 ft.) long and have a diameter of twenty-four inches (24 in.) Heavy commercial ducting is the recommended choice. Training on the Flexible Tunnel...
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Tunnels
Apr 26, 2009 12:45:08 GMT -5
Post by DogGoneGood on Apr 26, 2009 12:45:08 GMT -5
Training on the Flexible Tunnel: Some dogs take to the tunnel very easily, while others have a bit more difficulty with it. The thing that gets most beginner dogs is when the tunnel is turned (in an "S" or "C" shape, or even with just a slight bend after the opening). This is because when entering the tunnel it does not appear to the dog that he can go all the way through. Most dogs tend to back out or turn around when they see this. Teaching the dog how to go through the tunnel, even when it is bent, is a matter of patience and building confidence. Like any obstacle, the tunnel must be taught in "baby steps". You start with the tunnel "scrunched" up so it is as small as it can go and straight so the dog can see straight through. Set the dog up on one end and throw your leash through the tunnel. By now in training, we hope your dog has a well enough understanding of "wait" or "stay". If he does not, you may need a helper to hold onto him and keep him on that side of the tunnel while you move around to the other side. Crouch down so that you can see THROUGH the tunnel and are looking at your dog. Call him to you! You can use the command "Tunnel" (or whichever command you choose to use), although at this point in training it isn't essential. You want to be enthusiastic and encouraging so that your dog will run THROUGH the tunnel rather than around it. If he DOES go around it, do not talk to him, simply lead him back to where you originally set him up and start over again. If he goes through it; PRAISE! You want to be very excited about what he just did! Once your dog is consistently going through the tunnel this way, even without you crouched down and looking at him you can try sending him through while he's at your side. If he refuses, try throwing a tasty treat or toy through the tunnel to remind him of where he's supposed to go. Practice and LOTS of praise! Once your dog is going through the small, straight tunnel while at your side you can try extending the tunnel slightly. Keep working at this until you have the tunnel fully extended and straight. Once he is going through the fully extended, straight tunnel you can start putting a slight bend in it. Just like how you slowly extended it, you will want to slowly bend it as well. Remember to use a LOT of encouragement, and throw a toy or treat through if you really have to. BE PATIENT! Some dogs take a long time to figure it out and have the confidence to go through a curved tunnel, while others pick it up extremely quickly. Every dog is different, and just because your dog doesn't get it quickly doesn't mean he never will, that he's "slow", or even that he doesn't enjoy it. Eventually he will figure it out, and I'm sure once he does he’ll be flying through there like a whiz! You may even find that eventually the tunnel seems to “easy” for your dog. At this point try doing more complicated shapes (an “S” shape is more complicated than a “C” shape) and try putting it under other large obstacles such as the Dog-Walk or the A-Frame. You may find your dog balks when the tunnel is placed under one of these obstacles, he may even become confused as to which obstacle he should be doing. This is where your practice and patience comes in. Teach him what’s right, work on it as often as you can, keep it positive, and he will get it!
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Tunnels
Apr 26, 2009 13:08:53 GMT -5
Post by DogGoneGood on Apr 26, 2009 13:08:53 GMT -5
Collapsible Tunnel (Chute) The Collapsible Tunnel does not turn or curve like a Flexible Tunnel, but it poses it's own difficulties to dogs. As I mentioned about training for the Flexible Tunnel, dogs don't like to go into a tunnel if they can't see a way out. The Collapsible Tunnel always gives this impression. Unlike the Flexible Tunnel, it also is a "one way" obstacle. A dog can not go through one end, turn around and go back through. It has an open end and the other end is a "collapsed" fabric that a dog must push it's way through. AAC Rules and Regulations V. 3.0 APPENDIX C Obstacle Construction and Standards COLLAPSIBLE TUNNEL:The collapsible tunnel is comprised of a rigid tunnel and a fabric tunnel chute. The rigid tunnel shall be a solid tunnel anchored to a frame such that it may be securely fastened to the ground. Note: a chute design incorporating the flexible tunnel as the "rigid" section and otherwise following all other chute specifications is considered an AAC approved chute. It shall be approximately thirty inches (30 in.) long and have a diameter between twenty inches and twenty-four inches (20 in. and 24 in.). An industrial plastic barrel with both ends removed is an excellent choice. The entrance to the plastic barrel shall be padded or sanded smooth. The tunnel chute shall be of durable lightweight fabric such as nylon or similar material, sewn into a tube. One (1) end of the chute is securely fastened to the rigid tunnel such that it cannot be pulled loose when a large dog runs through it. The rigid tunnel may be staked. The chute should flare out over it's full length to an exit circumference of between seventy-two inches (72 in.) and ninety-six inches (96 in.) which, measured flat, gives a width between thirty-six inches (36 in.) and forty-eight inches (48 in.). The fabric portion of the chute should be approximately twelve feet (12 ft.) long. The exit end of the tunnel chute must be appropriately weighted. For safety reasons, staking of the tunnel chute is NOT allowed. The suggested method of weighting the cloth portion of the chute is to sew sand pockets, approximately six inches by six inches (6 in. x 6 in.), to the underside of the chute, eighteen inches to twenty-four inches (18 in. to 24 in.) apart. These are sewn on three (3) sides, the fourth side being a hook-and-loop closure. Sealable bags can then be filled with wet sand and inserted into the pockets. Training on the Collapsible Tunnel…
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Tunnels
Apr 26, 2009 13:18:52 GMT -5
Post by DogGoneGood on Apr 26, 2009 13:18:52 GMT -5
Training on the Collapsible Tunnel You will need a helper to teach your beginner dog about the Collapsible Tunnel. It is best if your dog has already learned, and is doing well, on the Flexible Tunnel (so I suggest training on that first if you have not already). Just like with training on the Flexible Tunnel, you will set your dog up in a wait/stay (or have a helper hold the dog) and then move to the other side of the Chute. You may want to have another helper for this part as well. Hold open the collapsed part of the Chute (or have a helper do it) while you look through the Chute and excitedly call your dog through (you can use the command "Chute" [or whichever command you choose - some use "through" or "push"] at this point if you'd like). If your dog does not run through the chute, lead him back to where you originally set him up, with no words, and give the wait/stay command again. If your dog does go through the chute PRAISE! Let him go through several times without the fabric of the chute touching him at all. Once he is going through consistently this way you can gently drop the fabric of the chute onto his back as he goes through. Start with dropping it as he's almost all the way through, do this a few times and then drop it when he's halfway through. Repeat doing this several times until he is accustomed to the fabric touching his back as he goes through. Gradually you will drop it as he's almost passing through (on his head) and then eventually right before he comes to the end (before his head passes through). Once you've done this several times you should be able to call him through without holding it open at all! If you find he gets a little lost or confused, let him push his way through. If he panics or becomes entangled you need to step in and open the chute for him. You want him to be confident about pushing through it and avoiding any bad experiences is your best bet to do this! Just like with the Flexible Tunnel, once he is going through it with you calling him through (and without opening the fabric chute for him), you can try sending him through while he is at your side. You may need to have your helper open the fabric chute and drop it on his back a few times to remind him he can go through without you being on the other end. Most dogs tend to pick the idea up fairly quickly, especially if they are confident dogs who have already learned the Flexible Tunnel first (and thus they understand that just because they can't see the opening at the other end doesn't mean it's not there!). Good luck, and remember; Practice, Patience, and PRAISE!
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